The New World

Canada Sucks

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Thu, 15 Dec 2011 09:43:00 +0000

Canada was clearly the bad guy during COP17. Why, because they decided early in the conference to leak their impending withdrawal from the Kyoto protocol. This news overshadowed the stale reality that the worlds' biggest emitters have never been part of Kyoto. But Canada is not helping the situation by not leading by example.

So where did that leave us? The conference was a success because everyone agreed to agree to continue negotiations. Oey vey!

Canada's bailout seems to highlight a deeper more important factor that is being overlooked. Governments and Corporations will never compromise their clients' needs. We are their clients. So as long as we continue to demand a certain level of economic growth, coupled with the comfort of not having to endure change, our governments and the corporations of the world will never come to an agreement on how to adjust their policy and procedures for the good of the environment.

" We must remember that the real threat to democracy is not radicalism but stagnation, inertia and habit" - Wilmot James. We seem to spend our lives resisting and protecting ourselves from radicals, but fail to see that radicals prey on our fear of change. We also forget that we have comfortable and opportunistic lives because of our forefathers' willingness to change. I think the latter is true of anyone in the world who has the freedom to be able to read this.

Earlier this year I popped in an out of the Occupy Wall Street demonstration. I was proud to stand up to everything that was wrong with capitalism, until I looked down and saw a Venti Latte in my one hand and an IPhone in the other...what I hypocrite I am, I thought, as I slunk out of the demonstration.

I invite those of us who point our fingers at governments and corporations for their lack of environmental responsibility to first closely examine our own habits. The real threat to human economic growth is not those radical tree huggers, and the real threat to our environment is not actions of capitalist pigs...the real threat to both growth and our environment is our unwillingness as individuals to change.

Rather then take the approach of "Why should I change if my neighbor won't change"...rather Be the change and perhaps your neighbor will change.

Definition of Climate Change

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Thu, 24 Nov 2011 05:13:00 +0000

"The Black Rhino is extinct in West Africa" - a global headline on the eve of COP17. The area north of Durban happens to be one of the few places where the few remaining Black and White Rhino can be found. Can you believe that in our lifetime an animal as big and majestic as a Rhinoceros might disappear from existence. And for what...knife handles and alternative medicine, likely a placebo.

Besides loosing a great wonder of nature, which is fun to look at and perhaps not a very consequential cog in the ecosystem, so why does it matter? And besides, what can most of us non-dagger carriers do about the rhino, besides shooting the poachers which doesn't seem very social.

In the last 30 years global fish stocks have been reduced significantly by over fishing. As an example for every 11 Cod that were in the Atlantic Ocean in 1970, there is 1 now. Yikes...I eat fish. If we do some rough math that means no more Cod to eat in a few years.

Everytime we eat meat, we have taken away food from 7 people...i.e. The food it took to feed the cow. Aren't their millions starving, or is that billions?

To produce a bottle of water involves using 3-7 bottles of water depending on the company. Fiji Water is 7. That's like taking a 10 minute shower and then leaving it running for another hour. Isn't water our most precious resource? I'm sure we would all choose a bucket of water mover a bar of gold when the survival chips are down

So why does all of this matter since our lives are comfortable and these are other peoples problems...yes, our children's problems, and maybe our problems in a few years. Our actions as consumers - eating, driving, wearing, reading, spending money...- dictate how companies and governments decide to use and abuse the Earth's natural resources. It's comforting to know that they put our "wants" ahead of the environment...or is it? So clearly we have the power to help save species, preserve resources and save human lives.

The solution is temperance. If we all thought through every act of consumption we performed and adjusted accordingly so as not to be excessive. Do I really need a 6 cylinder car or can I make do with a 4, is as important an analysis and choice, as why I really need to get that new pair of jeans or drink that extra beer(like beef, alcohol also takes a lot off food off people's tables).

But how do we have time for this level of consciousness. Since it will involve changes to our routine as well time spent understanding what exactly our impact might be in our various walks of life. This is all seems very time consuming.

In the U.S. the average person watches 4 hours of TV per night! Im sure the rest of the TV watching world is not far behind. How about reading novels and newspapers. How about political discourse. There is plenty of time in these typical activities that could be reassigned to making us better consumers, and who knows, could be more fulfilling than watching NCIS repeats.

The term Climate Change is very controversial and leads to multinational gridlock on how to deal with it. Part of the problem seems to be the average person's understanding of what it means. The science reports of climate change read like a quantum mechanics definition...brain freeze material.

Climate change is better defined by the Rhino situation. Every decision we make and every action that we take that effects the natural world results in climate change. When we overdo it, then climate change becomes detrimental to the future (not too distant) of life as we know it. To prevent climate change requires grassroots temperance and then what scientists and politicians have to say wont matter. Why wait for laws to determine how we live our lives. Let's re-mould our own lifestyles so that they are in harmony with that of the rhino and the rest of the natural world. Our freedom gives us that power.

The Spa

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 18 Nov 2011 17:59:00 +0000

The popping bubbles in my brain started to subside, as did a few seconds of mind numbness. Late night in a night club? No, this was the climax of my Port St. Johns Spa experience.

The white mud came first, which must cover the entire body. A short drive into the bush brought us to a small village and the mouth of a cave. To get the white mud one must strip down as far as comfortable and then walk into a damp dark cave and start mining the walls for a small ball of the precious mud. A full self application of the mud feels the skin starting to tighten. Then it's up a cliff using the roots of an enchanted looking tree to the bubbling sulfur pool for a second layer of black mud. First though we stop in front of a hole in the ground which has a long line of buckets waiting in front of it...waiting for the precious water within. We all get to take a sip before we jump into to sulfur pool. This is healing water but doesn't have the sweet taste one might expect from the fountain of youth...this is Fear Factor material. Yuck. Feel better??? I've never felt worse. After some black mud and scrambling down the tree, another hole confronts. No drinking from this one. "Release all your air, put your nose right here and inhale".... Tiiinnny bbuubbles...

The latter does as promised and clears yours sinuses . It's also supposed to help prevent arthritis. No mention of any possible brain cell depletion.

We all jumped back into the truck to go and have a nice salt rinse in the sea. Off to 2nd beach, which didn't necessarily mean the excitement was over.

Sharks typically kill about 6 people per year in the entire world. This beach has had 6 fatalities in the last 3 years. 4 lifeguards and 2 surfers. "But not to worry they only attack past the breakers".

If you are still reading, you should stop here if you don't want to hear the gory details. Here is a summary of my Q&A of a guy who was present for one of the past attacks.

It had been 8 weeks since the last attack when he(Jim) and 17 others decided to paddle out. Safety in numbers and enough time had past for some bravado to creep back in. A few hours later most had had enough and 4 were left. He had just finished riding a wave and saw that everyone on the beach were anxiously looking and pointing out to sea. One of remaining surfers had been attacked and was frantically paddling for the beach. Jim helped him in, but by the time they reached the beach he had bled to death. The shark had first grabbed his ankle then come back and bitten the top of his leg.

As scary as this is to hear this from a distance, one fact is probably scarier. These attacks are all by sharks that are only about 4 feet long. Sort of small. Not the apartment buildings made famous by Peter Benchley.

This is a gloomy story to end a day that started with a trail run among zebras and monkeys, followed by the adventure of a spa au naturale. But at the same time it's all part of life in a place called the Wild Coast. Drinks on the deck under the banana trees overlooking 2nd beach.

The New World

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:51:00 +0000

"We must be the change we want to see in the world" - Gandhi. These profound words are by a man who cut his teeth in Durban, South Africa, and seem appropriate for the next global climate change conference which is being held in Durban in a few weeks.

It is interesting to observe the state of climate consciousness in the area holding such an important meeting of minds. Obviously, there is a clear escalation of climate change related topics and stories in South African papers leading up to this event...sort of like how people all of a sudden become Curling fans during the winter Olympics. The question however is what is the grassroots interest in Climate Change.

To find out I headed south of Durban to a rural area in the Eastern Cape, known as Pondoland. Visually, this one of the most beautiful areas of South Africa with its rolling green hills, one might mistake it for the Scottish highlands. Adding in some thick jungle along the river valleys where one might expect to run into fairies, trolls and perhaps a hobbit. This area is known as the wild coast because of its rough seas which are renowned for swallowing ships, but the term is quite apt for the whole package. Within this beautiful land live the Pondo people who are a tribe within the Xhosa nation. You would think that these people have it made considering the land they live in which sounds like its full of milk and honey. Well they sort of do, but just like the rest of us they have their struggles.

And those include a very passionate defense of their land. In the 1960s they revolted against an apartheid law, not so much because of human rights, but more so the resulting over population would cause soil erosion and over grazing. They won that battle. More recently they won another battle, which was to prevent an Australian company from mining titanium in the area. The latest battle to prevent the construction of a toll highway through the middle of their land is being waged in the shadow of the climate conference. This battle is being lost, but is not over.

The Pondo understand well the sensitive balance between human activity and nature's survival. They will stop at nothing to prevent outsiders from tipping that balance. But they also realize that their own activities must be kept in check. They realize that using wood for cooking fires is not sustainable for the local forests. Since they live off the grid, and as they patiently wait for the national electricity provider to plug them in, they realize that alternative power sources might be the best way to go, and they are willing to pay. The latter is staggering since they make they make little to no money.

So, in the midst of corporate South Africa scrambling to show how Eco friendly they are as the magnifying glass of the world descends on Durban, there is a group of people who have not lost touch with nature. This is inspirational, and hopefully COP17 will look a few hundred kilometers beyond their conference rooms for answers.

The serendipity in this world never ceases to amaze me

The Perfect Thon

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 15:27:00 +0000

Waking up 2.5 hours before sunrise is needed so that you may get to the finish line and catch the bus 42km out of town to the start of the Buffs Marathon. East London is a small port city in the Eastern Cape Province of South Africa. But as small and lazy as it may seem it often seems like a hive of activity and the road heading out of town early on this Saturday morning was no exception. The outskirts of town came quickly and soon the bus was rolling through the pitch black, with only headlights to be seen. After what seemed like a very long 42km, the bus came to a stop and everyone filed out on to the side of the road. No barriers stopping traffic, no marshals directing the traffic. Just 850 people scattered along the side of the road waiting for the 5.30 start. Then without prompt, as if it had been rehearsed, the crowd pushed together and shuffled forward stopping to form an barrier that not even the cars and trucks would brave. Out of no-where, an inflatable, "Old Mutual" starting arch rose up across the road, and a mega phone voice announced - "it's erection"...the starting instructions, and the race was off.

Into the night, but not for long. The road ran east and into a spectacular sunrise, which lit up the rolling hills of countryside that was to be the back drop for most of this run. A cool summer morning with not much breeze(an added treat for an area where windless is the exception). Already, after about 10km, this was showing all the signs of being a perfect marathon, and did not disappoint. So why?

Basically because the simplicity of the race's infrastructure, making the joy of long distance running the core focus. Nothing was a big deal, one just got to a point on the side of the road and started running home. No clocks, little blocks dropped on the side of the road showed the km's pass by, and best of all - the water stops gave out water in mini sealed packets - da? genius! awesome! Who wants to be handed a cup of water to sip - road races are not cocktail partys. But small packets, you can bite off an edge and peacefully sip as you run...or even carry for a while.

Things get a bit tricky as the race started to wind through town, but nothing a road runner cant handle. After dodging a bit a traffic, running through a couple of neighborhoods up a couple of nice little climbs, the finish seems to come as quickly as the start and with a 5.30 start, there is plenty of time to enjoy the rest of the day.

Here is to travel to places off the path beaten by tourists! To experience a culture before it has been artificially enhanced makes for a rich experience, and why not make that trip targeting a local event just to get things started.

The rest of that day whizzed by, starting with a hearty stuffed pancake and cappuccino overlooking the water. Once again, as quiet and lazy as this town may seem from a distance - there is always a lot going on, especially when it comes to outdoor activity. Just in front of cafe, the handful of patron's toggled their attention from the rubber dingy race where the helmeted crew were launching their boats over shoulder height waves at break-neck speeds; and a fisherman landing 6 foot Ragged Tooth Shark from the rocks across the road....needless to say a swim in the tidal pool seemed like the best option.

Sundowners, an escargot starter, and a big plate of Kingklip ended the day just as it started - with a big satisfied smile!

Open letter to U2

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 10:16:00 +0000

Hi Guys,

I was one of 70,000 people privileged to see you perform in the Mother City on Friday night. You were amazing...inspiring. Like the feeling of pouring and drinking a glass of water when you are really thirsty, you held me in that selfless present for the entire time you were on stage. All my anxieties, fears, and judgments were replaced with a warm feeling of happiness, and a singularity with the energy radiated by you and everyone else in the stadium. I'm sure I was one of many, if not all people that night who had the same experience

As I drifted out into the night, I wondered if your music might have that effect on so many privileged people, imagine what effect it may have on those who have lost hope. Imagine playing in front of 70,000 people who live on $2 per day - how that experience might inspire them.

I look forward to our next encounter.

P.S. Nice touch having the big, bright, round moon perched above your heads all night.

Footnote - the glass of water analogy is not my material

Egyptian women deserve their freedom...also

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 16 Feb 2011 09:58:00 +0000

http://www.iol.co.za/news/africa/tv-reporter-sexually-assaulted-in-cairo-1.1027118

This article shook my memory back to the 3 weeks that I spent in Egypt, and what stands out the most is hour poorly men treat the women. Interestingly enough, it also a time of one of my fondest memories which was my friend Caroline backhanding a teenage boy who attempted to fondle her as we walked the streets of Luxor.

Lara Logan is tough, and has always put herself in the line of fire, but this attack is senseless, cowardly, and representative of a nation whose mens' attitude and antics should be closely scrutinized as Egypt has an opportunity to build a productive future.

Mubs down...Mugs to go

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Sat, 12 Feb 2011 17:32:00 +0000

Common people of Zimbabwe, start the revolution. Take note of what your fellow Africans from the North have accomplished. You are a beautiful people who live in a beautiful country and you deserve the best thing that life has to offer - freedom.

Easy for me to say this from a distance. But people in countries like Egypt and Zimbabwe live a constricted existence because the powers that be inject fear into hearts and minds. There's fear by those who have nothing and are afraid to speak out and a more effective fear is that of the supporters - support that is purchased by providing to just enough people. As I watched the Egyptian situation manifest and as I've seen in Zimbabwe, I've always wondered why there are pro-bad leader supporters and as my father says, "When you and your family are totally dependent for your life and livelihood on someone like Mugabe, you'll do anything to keep him in power". There you have it. Nevertheless, revolution is in the air and we can only hope that the people of Zimbabwe take back what is theirs.

As per the prior blog, having spent time there a few weeks, ago I was in awe of what an amazing country Zimbabwe is. Travelers from close and far, 5 star and backpacker, active and passive, would all do well to visit a country that for all the wrong and unfortunate reasons has maintained an air of the past - a rare find in this day and age.

Lisa's Safari

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 09 Feb 2011 18:22:00 +0000

https://picasaweb.google.com/tim.y.thomas/LisaSSafari02?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ_t4Lfg9vChhAE&feat=directlink

When taking a guided tour, the trust and confidence you put in the guide can be a matter of life and death or just the matter of having a better time. Sometimes it is assumed and never questioned – like tandem ski diving. Sometimes is very easy to question, like when someone straps and clips a bungee cord and harness to your body. But no time has the decision to trust a guide been more obvious and more critical then canoeing down the Zambezi River. Soon after putting in and giving the first hippos’ a nice wide birth, an elephant was spotted eating on the bank. What do you say if the guide asks if you want to get a closer look – Yes, or course, how cool! not thinking what that really means. Next thing I know the bow of the canoe is slightly beached and pointed at an ear flapping young bull, which is facing us from a mere 30 feet away (the top of an elephants head is about 12 feet above the ground) . If that isn’t enough to get the adrenaline pumping, then the knowledge that a bloat of hippos is snorting and grunting 20 feet to our rear and left, is heart-stopping material. And right on key, cry of a fish eagle pierced the ear – a pure African moment.

It was then that I had to make the hard decision to trust and follow our guide without hesitation, because…hippos kill and as the guide said “ the most dangerous hippo is one you cant see”. So with that we reverse paddled away from the bank, swung around and made a mad dash through a gap in the bloat, to an island to set up camp for the night – all of which was directed by Champion – our guide, who seemed to have a lot of faith in our paddling capabilities!

The 3-day paddle safari from Kariba to Churundu (Zimbabwe), does not give one the opportunity to see a lot of different animals, but it certainly allows a very intimate interaction with Africa in its most undisturbed form. No lodges, no fences, no toilets, and very few people. The only people we saw, were the very occasional Zambian fisherman, on dugouts tending to their nets. One has to respect the continuity of life as it exists, and trying to interrupt that continuity for ones own convenience of comfort, can be at your peril. Embracing it became very spiritual.

I started this story towards the end for no apparent reason. There is a lot more to tell. My sister and my arrival in Kariba, was towards the end of a very rich 3 week adventure in South Africa and Zimbabwe.

After four days in Cape Town, kicked off by New Years Eve southern hemisphere style, we headed for the town of Port Edward which sits on the Northern border of the South Africa’s Wild Coast. From Port Edward we headed south by foot on the heels of our guide – Nonhle. For 3 days we were treated to an amazing array of lush rolling hills and untamed coastline, but what I thought was the most interesting was hearing about life in this area.

Pondoland is the northeast most corner of the Eastern Cape, and his home to the Pondo people who are a smaller group within the bigger Xhosa speaking tribe. Pondo people seem to be a very proud group of people, and have done a really good job of maintaining a strong sense of community in a country and world that is easily distracted by material net worth. This part of South Africa is often described as the poorest part of the country – an accusation to which Pondo people take offense, and wonder what measure is being used for this judgement. They certainly don’t have restaurants, gyms, cars galore, sprawling suburbs, but seem to be happy and content with the life they live…I haven’t met many communities, if any, where that is the case – everyone always seems to want more. Material life aside, the one thing that really struck me was the lack of crime and violence in this area. At one point as we walked along our paths were to cross paths with a group of older teenage boys, which was a cause for concern for me, and my defensive adrenalin surged a bit. But we passed close by and there was a friendly Xhosa greeting between them and Nonhle. I immediately felt guilty for my profiling. As if sensing so, Nonchle went on to tell us that if we had run into a group like that anywhere else in the country, “there would have been trouble”.

Not being a sociologist, I can only believe Nonchle, whose theory is that Pondoland has rejected the capitalist influence that has swept across the country and the result is that a strong sense of family, respect, and self-dependence remains. Is it the last vestige of pure Ubuntu is this part of the world? Maybe, but women, don’t have much say in the matter except they do get to approve of their husband’s next wife.

After a spending the good part of the last 12 months in Africa, I can’t help but think as Captain Kirk would say, that this continent is the final frontier. I feel like I deserve to take credit for that analogy, but I see that it appears to be written everywhere, especially in the business sections. The opportunities are endless for entrepreneurs and global companies alike. The cities are breaking at the seams. There is land a plenty for those who want to check out of the chaos of western civilization. But with all this being said, final frontiers are usually a little dangerous, and yet vulnerable at the same time. This dichotomy is probably the reason that everyone – even those who live in the most upscale neighborhoods, seem to be a little bit on edge. The poor need to do whatever it takes to get their next meal, which includes targeting the rich. The rich in turn must protect their possessions and well-being. This is a vicious circle, which is too big and moves too quickly to be regulated by law alone.

Southern Hemisphere

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 03 Dec 2010 10:47:00 +0000

I just arrived back in Cape Town, just as winter was shooting a warning shot across the bow of the U.S. Northeast. Being in the other hemisphere, means being in the other season, so shorts and flip flops have been dug out from their brief hibernation.

I left this country a few months, where it and I were enjoying a post World Cup high. My return however, has been under a cloud of consternation over a South Africa that has reverted to its old reputed ways. I have asked my self how can this be, since I am not even there to know. The very simple answer I think is that stories in the news or reflections of people who are there or have been there, have all painted a negative picture.

Here is the list:
- my Aunt and Uncle were burgled twice in 1 week, not only do they live in one of the more secure neighborhoods I have seen, but at least one of intrusions was in the early morning daylight while everyone was still in the house... the audacity is disturbing
-I met someone 2 weeks ago who is hesitant to come to South Africa because their South African friend says its very dangerous.
- I met someone else who recently returned from vacation in Cape Town and Zimbabwe. She said that she didn't really enjoy Cape Town, because they were advised not to leave their hotel after dark - which is understandably constricting - especially on vacation! She loved Vic Falls.
- I just finished reading Peter Godwin's new book which details some horrific stories of government brutality in Zimbabwe over the last couple of years. Yes that's not South Africa and thats a different story - but thats next door and has prompted a mass attempted exodus to South Africa...but thats not the end of the story. Stories a few month ago told of anti-immigrant violence by South Africans - specifically against Zimbabweans (because they are taking jobs).

And list sort of goes on.

As I sit in the safety of a coffee shop in a ritzy Cape Town neighborhood, sipping a macchiato, I have decided that for the next 2 months I'm going to search for that Ubuntu that was the source of that world cup high from a few months ago. I know its here somewhere, its has to be...right?

Africa United

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Mon, 04 Oct 2010 18:36:00 +0000

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/culture/film/8030562/Africa-United-set-report.html

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 10:10:00 +0000

Its Holland vs. Brazil, kick-off is minutes away, and a random bar at Cape Town's Waterfront is oozing intensity. The Brazil fans are singing and chanting, cheering and clapping - this is their world cup to win!! Not long after the starting whistle is blown Brazil is running circles around the Dutch defense, and soon rewards themselves with the first goal - making it look like a possible bloodbath is at hand. The fans in the bar are beside themselves. Brazil fans are professional - their cheering and celebration is almost choreographed - and their excitement comes from deep within their hearts.

Well, as we all know by now, the tide changed and the Dutch buckled down and went back to the basics. Their first goal found hundreds of Dutch fans who must have been sitting silent in the bar - almost as if they were knowingly biding their time. The Dutch roar, and the shock of the goal, silenced the Brazilians...but only for a second. They were not to be denied and soon enough were back on their feet cheering and chanting, almost as if the second goal had been scored by their beloved team. Now that the Dutch had made their presence known, the war was on - a fan war...not like the wars that we all expect of the hooligan fans from the likes of the English and Russian leagues, but a war of celebration!! Holland struck again - which was another knock down blow for the Brazilian fans, but again, a little stunned, they stood back up and in utter defiance, continued the chanting and cheering with even greater intensity.

The final blow was in the form of a red card which the Brazilian fans just couldnt recover from. The Dutch were now on their feet - cheering, screaming, taunting - and the Brazilians just sat in their own silence - stunned. The final whistle ended the battle and what happened next defines this years World Cup.

In the face of taunts and cheers which pointed out the obvious - every Brazilian in the bar stood up, and gave the Dutch fans a congratulatory round of applause, backed-up with a few handshakes and pats on the back. After which they were back on their feet chanting and cheering...they were not going to let their disappointment turn to anger, nor were they going to hate their team for the loss or hate the Dutch for their win. Does this reaction ring a bell??

I looked on in awe

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 02 Jul 2010 07:43:00 +0000

Proud Nation

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 23 Jun 2010 15:04:00 +0000

Although Bafana Bafana failed to score enough goals to qualify them for the next round, beating the French in their final game was cause for countrywide celebration. The absence of the host team will certainly tone down the noise level, but most South African’s have a backup favourite to route for, and will provide willing cheering partners for the visiting fans. The tournament has started to take form, as a few teams have shown their expected dominance, while a few others have struggled to meet expectations. As this is being written, England is hanging on by a thread, while the French have probably just landed at De Gaulle. In a couple days the stage will be set for the knock-out portion of this World Cup.

South Africa is certainly proud of their soccer team, but should also be proud of their hospitality. Thus far, this event has gone off without a hitch. “I’m in love with South Africa” as one tourist was heard saying, seems to be a popular feeling had by the hundreds of thousands of soccer fans who have made the pilgrimage. The critics predicted a crime spree and a transportation nightmare, in addition to other infrastructure failures and unreasonably high prices. Subsequently local business’s prepared for a slump in the numbers of attendees.

According to the newspaper, brothel business is way down, and a couple of doctors have commented on the emptiness of the emergency rooms. But hotels are sold out, bars are packed and not too many people can be found who aren’t sporting some sort of purchased World Cup gear. Draw your own conclusions, but my conclusion is that this is shaping up to be one of the most successful world cups yet.

And the poor USA. One person suggested that the call retracting the possible winning goal in their last game was payback for 8 years of Bush/Cheney. Another suggested that ref was paid by Bush /Cheney. Either way it just happened again. Clint Dempsey just blasted a shot into the back of the net, and he was called offside for no apparent reason. Could these conspiracy theorists be right???

Bafana Bafana!

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 09:28:00 +0000

The world cup opening champagne pop was in the form of South Africa putting the ball in the back of the net. As if scripted, the host team scored the first goal of the tournament, which was like throwing petrol on a wildfire of football mania.

Amazingly, in the weeks leading up to this match, South African fans didn’t once seem to think that their Bafana Bafana(Boys Boys) would loose this match, even though the bookmakers thought otherwise…goes to show you the power of positive thinking. Mexico did score and the game ended in a tie, but the disappointment was fleeting, and the celebration was taken to the next level.

The next evening and a few matches later, the soccer world’s attention was on the town of Rustenburg, which is renowned around the world not for its platinum mines, but for its neighbour – Sun City, which is South Africa’s Vegas. Many years ago a handful of mostly American and English pop stars sang the song – “I’m not going to play Sun City” in protest of apartheid. But times have changed, and just outside of Sun City was the venue for the next chapter in the sordid history of the American/England rivalry – summed up best by the poster in this picture.

The streets on the south side of the stadium were teaming with England’s red and white. Alas, there wasn’t much blue on the north side either and much to my dismay most of the locals seemed to be gunning for England as well – maybe they didn’t like the fact the O sent in his Veep.

The Americans were few and the English were confident, until that slippery little ball snuck through the keeper’s hands tying the game and the “U…S…A” chant even overpowered the Vuvusela’s. The final score was decided and no self respecting Englishman would ever be satisfied with a tie in football against a country like the U.S.

“They played like bloody rubbish” …sums up what the English thought of the game.

The tournament is now in full swing and South Africa’s way of life seems to have been altered…at least for now. Emergency rooms are emptier then ever, road rage has subsided and there seems to be a general harmony and unity not felt since Nelson Mandela’s Springboks won the 1995 Rugby World cup. That’s the good news.

The bad news, is that life does go on and there are the reported incidents that remind you of life’s cruelty and the reality of the world we live in. This past weekend a family of four were enjoying their trip to SA to watch the world cup, until the teenage son fell to his death as the family were hiking down Table Mountain.

That story is sad. Then there are disappointing stories like the ANC’s youth party ripping down brand new toilets installed for poor people who have to use a ditch or bush in plain view every time they need to go. The youth party believed that the toilet structure was insufficient, overlooking the fact that a lot of people now had a private hygienic place to poop. I understand the power of political protest, but I’m pretty sure the privacy of a toilet is sacred.

And then there is a touch of comedy in the fact that a lot of the reported petty crime thus far appears to be conducted by foreigners. Not a bad move for a foreign pickpocket to pick up their trade in a country where crime is so bad that a local will be sure to be the first blamed.

Enough of that…this world cup month. The Germans look like a force to be reconned with and the Aruzzi look washed up. But then again, its still early and there are still many games to be played.

Vuvusela Nation

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 09:49:00 +0000

Traditionally, I look forward to being woken by the screams of the Hadeda Ibis (a big grey, loud bird) at about 5.30am on my first morning after arrival in Johannesburg. Not this time.

I arrived in Joburg 3 days ago, and at 5.30am, both I and probably the Hadeda's were surprised to be woken up by the vuvusela cry. For those who haven't heard of this new early morning animal, its the horn that is used by SA soccer fans, and now by soccer fans the world over. It is plastic, about 3 feet long, it is LOUD and it is leading the charge of the humongous vibe that is building in South Africa. And true to the motto of the 2010 World Cup - You can feel it, it is here!!

The excitement is as intense as the vuvusela is loud. Today, it looks as though this country has put aside its challenges, and are going launch this tournament like never before...African style.

I'm off to Soweto. More soon...

Thank you!!

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Mon, 24 May 2010 08:40:00 +0000

When you think of Africa, what comes to mind?

The 2010 Tour d'Afrique is complete and I would like to thank you all for your contributions to SELF, for helping to spread the word, and for following my progress. Your involvement has touched me deeply.

I would like to say that in the past four months, I experienced an intimate discovery of African culture. I did experience an intimate view of some African roads, traffic and majestic landscapes; but the tour dynamic was my focal point, which seemed to leave little time to immerse myself in the African cultures. However, I did get a lot closer to Africa's vibe than my usual perch which can usually only see the likes of the New York Times or the BBC.

So what does the word "Africa" bring to mind? I'm guessing - poverty/war/corrupt dictators/lions and elephants. While I saw some lion and elephant, I saw no poverty I haven't seen in New York City, I didn't see any fighting, and I didn't meet any dictators(that I know of). This doesn't mean Africa does not have any of the above, it's just that those images should not define this large complex continent.

I chose to raise money for SELF - an NGO whose mission is to help developing countries improve their infrastructure. After my journey, I am even more optimistic that SELF's model will be more productive - then simply giving money - for Africa's future. As I experienced first hand, if you give a person some cash, they spend it to satiate an immediate desire, which is soon forgotten, but yet the expectation for a handout is even stronger. However, if you give someone the opportunity to make something for you, they might drive a hard bargain, but they take pride in the work they have done. Instead of exploiting Africa's resources, what if the developed world helped Africa learn how capitalize its own natural and intellectual resources?

Africa is the 2nd largest continent (bigger then North America and Europe) and it has 54 countries, where 2000 different languages are spoken by a billion people - this is what I found on wikipedia. What I found on our bike ride, is the people are proud, friendly, hospitable and willing to work for their future....IF left to their own devices.

Thank you again for your support.

P.S. I will close down the SELF fundraising at the end of this week, but will continue to update my blog with my observations of Southern Africa during the World Cup.

Cape Town, South Africa

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Wed, 19 May 2010 08:20:00 +0000

What a long strange trip it's been, as Robert Hunter once wrote.

This past Saturday morning we started our final day in nice calm crisp, but bitter cold weather. Soon enough the sun made an appearance and warmed us just in time for our arrival at our last lunch stop which was on the beach across the bay from Table Mountain. What an amazing backdrop for us to enjoy a gourmet spread and hold our bikes high in the air for the camera!!

From lunch we had a 30km convoy along the bay, and through downtown Cape Town, for an arrival at the V&A Waterfront. The expected elation I described previously, which had been building over the past few days, speeded the convoy up as we neared the finish. The finish line came quickly and so did the smiles, hugs, handshakes, jumping up and down, more smiling. Behind all of that, you could sense everyone experiencing a very calming satisfaction....we did it!

The rest of the day and night allowed us to roll in our accomplishment as awards were given, speeches made, beards and hair shaved, families and friends received, bikes donated, champagne bottles popped.

During the evening we had an awards and celebratory dinner, at which a slide show was shown - 500 pictures documenting the last 4 months. We had just crossed Africa, and yet most of the pictures were of us...the TDA riders and staff. That's what this journey was about...us. Yes we rode our bikes, and we saw a lot of 10 African countries, and we met and talked to a few African people, but this trip was defined by the interaction between the TDA people.

One day in January, 70 strangers all met at a hotel in Cairo, and for the next 4 months, lived within a few feet of each other 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Our privacy was revealed. Alliances and friendships were formed...even a little love. Enemies made. Love and hate was displayed as was good and bad moods. And the only thing we all seemed to have in common was that our interaction for 4 months happened in Africa...oh, we also each brought a bike with us. And as quickly as we came together, we all went our separate ways. A lot of friendships will endure, but many of us will never hear from each other again, and yet I believe that the essence of our nostalgia for this safari will be the TDA riders and staff.

At the end, our race winner summed up his experience as "These were some of the simplest days of my life, riding from one camp to another, enjoying the day. Now it's back to the reality, back to the real world". All we had to do was wake up, put our tent in the truck, ride our bike to the next camp, eat and go back to sleep, while enjoying each moment of the experience. If riding on any given day was unappealing we hopped on the truck. All one had to do to get the most out of this trip was to accept Africa for what it was and accept TDA for how it operated. My experience left me with 2 disappointments. I was disappointed in myself for not being able to leave out my western expectations when dealing with vendors of all sorts in Africa. I was also disappointed in the TDAers who were unable to embrace the expected inconveniences of this trip and chose to display their perceived victimization through regular complaining.

The latter was fortunately overshadowed by an ongoing feeling of satisfaction and fulfilment that this trip provided...each ride, each starry night sky, each photographic view, each taste of a new cuisine, each healing, each challenge, each welcome, each laugh(lots of those) and the list goes on. I believe all of these individual experiences will slowly blend together and be remembered as one giant TDA moment...a memory that will be jogged by the most expecting occurrence.

And now what? As our chef pointed out the day after our arrival - once the celebrations have subsided, our feelings can turn to confusion. Waking up and realizing we don't have to put our bag in the truck and get on the bike, but rather deal with the choices and complications presented to us back in the "real world", can be confusing.

Once the confusion subsides, I will play back the slide show and enjoy the rich memories I have of the time I spent with 70 strangers riding bikes across Africa.

Out of Africa...

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 14 May 2010 08:44:00 +0000

...is the feeling I had soon after crossing the border into South Africa. The roads, traffic pattens, cars were the first clue, and as we have moved further south it has become more and more apparent...South Africa provides a stark contrast to the rest of Africa as I experienced it.

With that being said, the beauty was not left at the border. South Africa's west coasts weather and ruggedness provides a wildness that makes you feel like you are at a frontier. And as frontiers can be inhospitable to newcomers, so can this area, if the cold wind is coming at you, and there is 100 miles of hilly road between you and a warm shower. But that is behind us now...and so is the wind. The last 2 days the wind has come around and has joined forces with us, pushing us away from the rain and towards the finish line.

Tomorrow is our Champs Elysees...in the form of a convoy into Cape Town

Felix Unite

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Mon, 10 May 2010 04:13:00 +0000

Odometer - 11,000 km

I can see country #10

Looking across the Orange river, past all the bird life and the unidentified mammal that keeps surfacing, I am staring at South Africa. We have just enjoyed our last rest day at a river camp called Felix Unite, which is on the Namibia side of the river. In a few hours, we will pass through immigration and begin our run down South Africa's west coast.

Our arrival here completed a week of long days on friendly dirt roads, with back-drops which were a continuation of the beauty I described in my previous blog...southern Namibia will always be remembered as a place that is almost fantastical in its beauty, and even after seeing it first hand, I already sometimes wonder if it truly did exist.

Our last day of riding in Namibia made us earn the cold drinks waiting for us in Felix Unite. 174km, most of which was on dirt, with some nice long gradual uphills to keep the speedometer in check, but it was the last 30km or so that defined the day...headwind on tired legs, knowing that we are so close. The end of last week's riding for a lot of people seemed to come with an exhale of breath...knowing that we have had an amazing journey, and the end is just so close.

Sesriem, Namibia

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Mon, 03 May 2010 13:00:00 +0000

There is a scene in the movie, "Caddyshack", where all of the caddys have one day where they are allowed to use the country club's pool. The caddies converge on the pool, violating the peace, quiet and routine enjoyed by the club members. After the regulars have been horrified, the scene ends with an empty pool area...and pool, and a person in a hazmat suite cleaning up the "mess".

That scene is a good metaphor for what happens when the TDA converges on some sort of establishment. With very little consideration for its capacity or service standards, we eat it up, spit it out and then leave the horrified patrons in our dust. We can bring a small town to its knees, and can even leave our mark on a small city. But typically we like to prey on lodge and campground infrastructures. Sorry for the late notice but anyone who might be lying in our path, I recommend the following:
- overstock your fridges with cold cokes and beers
- fill your kitchen with comfort food
- install a speedy Wifi connection
- service and upgrade your sewer system
- make sure you take credit cards or currency from your neighboring countries
- fumigate - targeting mosquitoes and ants
- arrange a free shuttle service
- install 10 washers and dryers
- most importantly - double your staff and put them through the Ritz Carlton's service training program.

If you take these precautions, and are prepared to be at our bec and call 24 hours a day, it will be a pleasure doing business with us.

Our latest victim, is the town of Sesriem, which is the gateway to the red dunes of Sossusvlei. Our ride here from Windhoek took us through some of the most sensational countryside, that have struck an array of reactions. Some vista's are coffee table book material and hold your gaze, while others invite you like the Ulysses's Sirens. Even coming across the a very common antelope like the Springbok, for some reason makes you stop and stare.

Homestretch is definitely the vibe in the TDA camp. Realization has set in that we are less then 2 weeks from the finish line and people have been reneregized by this notion. And what a pleasure to ride out this tour in this landscape.

But, we must beware, there is some hard riding between here and Cape Town. High winds, dirt roads, a canyon, who knows what else, coupled with long distances will make us earn our finish line elation.

Windhoek, Namibia

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 15:59:00 +0000

Odometer - 10,100km

24 hours of sensory overload:

11.30pm - The blinding flash is what woke me, just in time for the following thunderclap to scare the crap out of me
11.31 - 12.30am - The driving rain starts, as does my heart everytime I see a flash of lightning, prompting me to wonder about the effects of being in a battle zone.
12.30am-4.30am - Sleep comes but the rain does not go
4.30am - Wake up, get dressed, take down tent - all the while attempting to stay dry.
5.30am - Eat a lot!!
6am - Still a bit dark, rain still going, and a bit cold - start the TDA's longest day.
6-8a.m. - Rain, wind, cold - riding along trying to subdue all non-functional thoughts.
8-10 - Weather clears, and a full lunch is a nice way to celebrate the reprieve.
10-12.30 - A mad dash to the Botswana/Namibia border. Some Wildebeest are spotted along the side of the road
12.30 - 207km ride complete - elation, satisfaction.
12.30 - 1pm. Pulling into the Customs building just as the sky opens again.
1.15. Arrive at camp/lodge.
1.30 - Order 2 chocolate milkshakes, 2 cokes, an egg/bacon/cheeseburger with fries and enjoy - most satifying meal of my life
2.30 - Holster the tent, for a chalet room.
3.00 - A rare hot shower, with even rarer, heavy water pressure. One of those showers one doesnt want to leave.
3.30 - The rain is back - as I curl up into a bed - siesta time
5.30 - Steak for dinner, followed by another milkshake
8.00 - Back to bed for the night

As I write this 2 things come to mind. Firstly, although I have outlined just one specific day, there have been many days like this and for that matter this trip might be described as sensory overload. Secondly, the milkshakes, steak and bed make it clear we are getting closer and closer to a first world country...SA.

As we made our way into Windhoek yesterday, for the last 40km, I started to notice random armed soldiers along the side of the road, either guarding the entrance to an abode or simply standing in the bush. Either way, they were clearly making themselves present. Perhaps I've been reading too much Wilbur Smith or Frederick Forsyth, but I started to think that there was revolution in the air...come to find out that the President of Burundi was on his way from the airport.

Our arrival in Namibia's capital, marked the end of century week - over 800 km, which averages out to 100 miles per day for 5 days. Since there was lots of time to think - or listen to Bill Hicks on the iPod - I came up with why Botswana might feel so mysterious as mentioned before...there doesn't seem to be much stress. It appears to be a very relaxed society. If that is the case, my very uneducated guess as to why, is because the population density is low. Is it possible that the higher the density of people, the higher the anxiety levels?? My only other experience which might validate that theory is my time in Iceland - once again, low stress and coincidently not a lot of people.

Tommorrow we head south again, on to some dirt roads which will take us to Namibia's interior

Maun, Botswana

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Fri, 23 Apr 2010 07:14:00 +0000

Odometer - 9250 km

If you are able to see the horizon without obstruction, you will be able to see a clear thin line that seperates the earth from the sky, where everything seems to be invisible. The best place to see this apparition is standing on a beach on a nice clear day...or riding a bike through Botswana. The roads, have been long, flat and straight, to the point where every now and again, there are no slight curves or hills in the distance to block infinity.

The peleton is back!!!

Gone are the days of dirt and hills where the benefit of drafting was minimal. The distances are now long and steady, and getting into a paceline of cyclists increases your efficiency and speed incrementally. Staring at someone's back tire gets old pretty quickly (think of sitting in a spin class for half the day), but the appeal of a lower heart rate and less time in the saddle can be a welcome alternative on these long flat days. Then again, if you're feeling strong, the wind is at your back, the iPod is charged and your mind is ready to roam free...then let the peleton go and roam free like the animals you may see along the way. The inventory thus far of animal spottings by TDAers while cycling are: elephant, giraffe, buffalo, jackal, ostrich and the best sighting of all is a pack of wild dogs(an endnagered species).

Botswana is about 5 times the size of Pennsylvania, yet has the same amount of people has Philadelphia, not the Greater Philadelphia Area, just the City of Philadelphia. Its place in our journey is still a bit of a mystery to me as it seems so different to the places we have been. The people and landscape are similiar to that of its neighbors, but the vibe is different. I can't quite put my finger on why...yet.

A few days ago, about 80 km out of Livingtsone, we boarded a ferry to cross the Chobe river into Botswana. After setting up our tents, and stuffing our faces, we enjoyed a game drive in Chobe National Park. In lieu of the traditional Landrover, we boarded a boat and cruised up the river whose banks and depths were rich with animals...a welcome adventure for a post ride afternoon!!!

A long week looms - not a day under 160km, and inclusive of our longest day - 207km, with Namibia's Capital, Windhoek, as the carrot!!

Nata, Botswana

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 12:41:00 +0000

Although I did not see this first hand, the highlight of the week, was hearing the story of how one of the TDAer's stopped on the side of the road and was approaching a wild elephant, arm outstrecthed, holding a pealed banana.

He backed off after a passing vehicle screamed the to him the possible implications.

We are in the middle of Botswana, where big game roams free. Last night our usual ritual of finding an ant free spot for our tents was replaced by finding a spot between elephant tracks.

Mosi-oa-Tunya

noreply@blogger.com (Tim Thomas) — Sat, 17 Apr 2010 06:22:00 +0000

As our skiff drifted down the Zimbabwe bank of the Zambezi river, I knowingly pointed out the we were hearing the distant grunting of hippos...but was quickly corrected by our guide who told us the noise was simply cars driving over speed bumps on the nearby road. After the laughter subsided we did hear the real thing and a few minutes later I got a small taste of why the hippo is such a fearsome animal. Our boat passed close to a herd of partially submerged hippos, and apparently we were a bit too close for mom's liking. She turned to face us and, with no hesitation, lunged forward and disappeared below the surface. I turned to the guide and asked how fast hippos can move underwater - 40kph(about 28mph) was his response. Since we were about 30 feet away, my quick calculation induced a nice shot of adrenaline into my system...i.e. panic attack. Seconds later the hippo surfaced about 20 feet from us and as it went under again, our guide moved the boat to a safe distance, and soon we resumed our quest to catch the mighty Tiger Fish. Now that is a healthy fear, although I doubt we were ever in any major danger.

An equally healthy fear is what one feels while sitting on a grated platform, 100 meters(over 300 feet) above the Zambezi River Gorge, while a stranger ties a rubber band to your ankles. "Toes over the edge, arms out, head up and on my count...5,4,3,2,1, Bungee...you jump". A few seconds later, after the chaos has subsided a bit, you are hanging upside down staring at a very angry river and contemplating the latest chain of events.

All in a days work in Livingstone, the small town on the Zambian side of Mosi-oa-Tunya which is the Kololo or Lozi language term for 'The Smoke which Thunders' and is the name given to the waterfall more commonly known throughout the world as Victoria Falls.

This town should be renamed the Kololo term for "sensory overload". Steep cliffs, high bridges, dangerous rapids, scary wild animals, luxurious hotels, river side camp sites is as much of a haven for creative entrepreneurs as it is for thrill seekers and those who want to settle into a spa retreat with the comfort of knowing that there is pure African beauty outside!

As I was sipping my post bungee Mosi Lager, I overheard someone saying that local Zambians are paid to make the jumps when new equipment is installed. It reminded me of a driving range I once went to in South Africa where the method of collecting the golf balls are people who are supplied with a scoop and construction hat! Although the bungee-tester story is unconfirmed, it still brought me back to the reality of the fear people must experience having to provide for a family when food, shelter and basic hygiene are a luxury. This fear is not healthy.

I have mentioned before that Africa has a draw, one that I have experienced my entire life. But the reality is that the real Africa is dirt poor, beyond poor. It's easy to fall in love with Africa, without taking into account the people who struggle to stay alive each day. My intention is not to imply that tourists should stop enjoying Africa's pleasures, I just think equal consideration and thought should be given to Africa's problems. That awareness in itself I think would go a long way to a bright future for this continent.